R&D Fee for Customized Product

The whole point of a cosmetics company R&D Services is to develop the custom product requested by the client. This is how products in a brand happen. 

Research and Development of a products includes the following details

FORMULA DEVELOPMENT

1. Idea is identified and described by the CLIENT

2. Client and R&D meet to review and refine the idea

R&D helps define the specifications and determine what is technically feasible from a production and cost perspective.

3. R&D researches the product

Using the information in the product idea, ingredients are researched from a technical, regulatory, and price perspective to create a "dry lab" formula, or a list of ingredients and percentages.

4. R&D submits paper formula to the CLIENT

Before laboratory work begins, Client reviews the paper formula to make sure both parties are on the same page regarding cost, ingredients, and claims. This is the time to confirm requirements for ingredients like an extract that must be included at a certain percentage or a preservative that cannot be used.

5. R&D makes prototypes

R&D begins laboratory work to produce prototypes and test for functionality, safety, aesthetics, stability, and packaging compatibility.

6. Client reviews the prototypes and provides feedback

Client gives feedback to the technical team about changes they would like to see in the formula. This step iterates until the formula is finalized. The more specific the feedback, the easier it is for R&D to change.

For example: "The lotion is too thick" is not as helpful as "The lotion is too thick to easily dispense from the tube. It should be less viscous but not so thin that it leaks from the package orifice"

FORMULA TESTING

7. Consumer testing

This step can be expensive if you are testing a new product with a large group of consumers. The idea is to get consumer insights on product attributes. The level of testing could range from informal feedback from company employees to a focus group of consumers to in-home testing of prototypes. In some cases, consumer testing will be skipped completely.

8. Stability testing

The most important R&D testing is stability. Will the product change over time or interact with the packaging in a way that is undesirable? (Examples include separation, color change, change in pH or viscosity, degradation of preservatives or active ingredients) The results of stability testing determine the product shelf life.

9. Clinical studies

Clinical testing is typically done to verify a specific claim, such as non-comedogenic. Other testing may be necessary depending on the formula type. For example, sunscreen products need to be tested to confirm the SPF level.

COMMERCIALIZATION

10. Scale-Up

This is where the production pharmacist takes over from the cosmetic chemist/pharmacist. While the chemis/pharmacistt made prototypes in a beaker at approximately one-kilogram scale, the production pharmacist will scale the product up to its full manufacturing size which could be in the range of 10kg to 100 kg. The process typically involves a mid-size pilot batch, a full-size trial batch, and if all goes well, the first commercial manufacturing batch to be sold to consumers. The best analogy is taking a cooking recipe designed for a small family and upgrading it for a large event.

11. Release testing

Before the first commercial batch can be sold, it will be tested against the specification created by R&D. The specification includes tests for appearance, color, odor, pH, viscosity, and levels of preservatives and active ingredients.

12. Ship to trade

If all testing passes, the product is released to market and shipped to customers. Success!